Eric B. is right -- this museum is definitely worth visiting for the Apostles Room and also for a painting of Toledo itself that El Greco painted.
It is interesting to see how the city (as El Greco interpreted it) has changed in the years since the painting was made. Actually, in an era where so many cities have become megalopolises, it is interesting to see that Toledo has actually shrunk over the years. After the capital moved to Madrid, Toledo lost population and entire districts have since crumbled into ruins. That was only around 450 years ago and yet time has entirely erased some of those areas. It is a humbling reminder of how quickly the things we build may yet disappear.
You can buy a combined ticket for this museum and the Sefardic Museum located in a former synagogue next door.
Rick Steves' Spain 2011 Book mentions that Museo de El Greco will be closed for renovation in 2011 and that there's better Greco at the nearby Santa Cruz Museum. Gayle and I found this to be incorrect on both counts. Maybe that's consistent with various opinions on whether El Greco actually lived here or died here in 1614.
As we left Sinagoga del Tránsito and headed up Calle Samual Leví (following the signs), we did indeed come to a door that indicated that Museo de El Greco was closed. Yet Gayle was unwilling to give up. We backtracked, walked along the Park and found the Modern entrance. That part isn't much more than a place to buy tickets. What we found beyond was an architectural dig, the El Greco House Complex (a 16th-century house and a 20th-century extension), and a nice Courtyard area between the walls. The Sinagoga was also in view as part of being within Toledo's Jewish Quarter.
The museum houses numerous works by El Greco, especially from this brilliant painter's last period, as well as canvases by other 17th century Spanish painters, furniture from the same era and, pottery from Talavera de la Reina. Specific El Greco works include the famous "View of Toledo", "Christ with the Apostles", the "Crowning with Thorns" and "San Bernardino". Gayle and I particular enjoyed the long and handsome Apostles Room. We're also glad that we took the extra steps to find Museo de El Greco and have the chance to wander around through the Home and the Galleries.
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